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Yallingup, Australia (150 miles south of Perth)

Monday morning, we were anxious to leave the heat and humidity of Bali, Indonesia. We were packed and on our way to the airport by 8:20 AM. As usual, Tom and Pam were at the airport an hour ahead of us to do their preflight routine. They were ready and waiting when we arrived and looked like they were about to melt. There is no air-conditioning on the airplane until we start engines and, of course, there is no air-conditioning after we start engines because it is not working. We are hopeful of a repair in Perth, Australia.

The wheels were up at around 9:00 AM and we were off across the Indian Ocean for the land down under, Australia. We had mixed emotions because we were leaving the exotic behind and entering a land with a much more familiar culture. The first leg of Monday's flight was to Port Hedland, Australia (a distance of 726 miles). For the first time in a month, I am completely caught up on my journal and Ashley and I decided to have a game of gin rummy. Until now, I have spent almost all of my flying time either writing or editing snap shots.

The photos are very time consuming. First, we transfer up to fifty or sixty photos per location from the camera to an "Original" folder on the Mac. These files are about 1.5 Megs each. Secondly, we select ten or twenty of them and copy those to the "Web Snap Shot" folder. Next, I enhance the lighting and contrast and crop as needed. Then, I add a caption and resize the photos to 9" x 6" (about 150 K) so that they can be transmitted to the web site. The transmission takes as much as 3 minutes per photo depending on the Internet connect which varies from 9600 (believe it) to broad band.

As we approached the shoreline of Australia, we spotted a large freighter leaving port and heading out to sea. She was riding very low in the water and was obviously fully loaded. Four tugboats were making sure she stayed in the middle of the channel and, upon closer look, you could see why. Her screws were leaving a trail of red mud in her wake as they scraped their way to deeper water.

A few minutes later, we were over land and we discovered what cargo the freighter was hauling. The scene below looked as though we had taken a wrong turn and were about to land on Mars. Everything below us on the flat terrain was red, covered with Iron Oxide. The primary industry in Port Hedland, Australia is mining iron ore.

After landing and taxiing to a stop, I decided to be helpful and, for the first time on the trip I got up and opened the cabin door. As soon as it was open, Tom yelled, "Don't open the door!" I pulled the door shut as fast as I could, hoping to avoid the expected spray of bullets from the oncoming squad of Australian terrorists. Actually, the problem wasn't terrorists at all, but a regulation requiring that we fumigate the interior of the airplane before opening the door.

After satisfying the above-mentioned requirements, Tom opened the door and we stepped out to a climate not unlike Arizona in July. The temperate had to be at least 100o Fahrenheit and very dry. The difference was the flies. We were soon to learn that Australia has lots of flies. Waving flies off of your nose is called the Australian salute.

Do you remember the picture of Ashley in Cambodia "Cutting a Deal"? She was in the process of buying a musical instrument. Well, it seems that the sound box on the instrument was covered with python skin. The Aussies aren't keen about tourists bringing Cambodian python skin into the their country. One of our welcoming party then produced a knife that Crocodile Dundee would have been proud to have carried and advised that we could either remove the skin or they would dispose of the whole thing for us. Reluctantly, we removed the skin. Actually, everyone was very nice and we had a great visit.

Soon we were on our way south toward Perth (another 706 miles). After a smooth flight over barren land, we landed at about 4:00 PM. This time I let Tom open the door and we stepped out to a beautiful sunny day in Perth with a temperature in the high 70's. We were greeted by our handler, Ian, who soon had us loaded (our luggage that is) and we were on our way to the Hyatt-Perth.

Perth is a beautiful clean city. It also happens to be the most isolated metropolis in the world. It is almost 2,000 miles to the nearest city of any size. This isolation has certainly helped shape the character of the people. Although Perth has almost 1.5 million inhabitants, it seemed to us to have a definite small town feeling. It was much like being in Lubbock, Texas with the same friendly self-reliant folks except that this city is on the Swan River and just a few miles from the Indian Ocean. The Hyatt is an excellent hotel with a good restaurant and comfortable rooms but most of all; it had an Ethernet connection for my Mac (heavenly).

Our guide in Perth was Wanda Woodhouse, a neat lady that reminded me of Bucky O'Donnell. She was definitely a Democrat or whatever Australians call them (Labor Party I think). She was also very likely to speak her mind which is very unusual in a guide since they are normally so diplomatic they would never give an opinion on politics. She said the Australians were scared to death when we elected George W. Bush as president and that they couldn't believe that the greatest democracy in history couldn't count the votes. We enjoyed her company although the tour planned by the "A & K" Melbourne office was less than optimal.

On Tuesday, Wanda and our driver, Peter, took us on a tour of Perth and then down the Swan River to the port town of Freemantle. If you recall, Freemantle hosted the America's Cup sailing race in 1987. We had a nice lunch looking out at the river and then rode the ferry back to Perth. The ferry ride was a real "yawner".

Wednesday was golf day. Peter picked us up at 7:30 AM for the ride to the Joondalup Golf Club. Joondalup is about a 30-minute drive north from Perth. One of the reasons I am a few days late in writing this entry is that I have been avoiding the painful memories of this match for as long as possible. To say that Tom won would be a gross understatement. I won the first hole and that was it. Tom won twelve of the remaining seventeen and we pushed the other five. This was the result of some superb play by Tom and some ghastly play by Pat. I lost a record eleven golf balls, the most of my entire life, and there were no water holes on the course. It is a Robert Trent Jones Jr. design with very narrow fairways and narrow rough areas. It is a beautiful layout but has lots of blind shots to the greens. We saw a family of kangaroos on the second hole but, by the time I was ready with the camera, they were gone. I'm now down $10.

Thursday morning we were packed and on our way to the airport at 8:00 AM. The flight to Busselton was less than an hour and we were able to go VFR, which means that we could select our own route and fly at a low altitude. We flew just off the coast at about 2,000 feet and had a great view. The Busselton airport was quite a change from what we had experienced previously. It is out in the countryside and surrounded by cattle ranches. When we arrived, there was no one at the airport. The ramp in front of the terminal building was quite small so Tom decided to park in the grass. That's when we got stuck in the sand. There was a moment of high anxiety but our mighty Pratt & Whitney PT6A-41 engines, each with 850 shaft horsepower, saved the day. With a burst of full power, we leaped forward and out of trouble.

By the time we had unloaded our luggage, our rental car arrived. It was the first time we had rented a car and been on our own since leaving St. John's, Newfoundland. The rental agent told us that when we returned the car to lock the keys in the boot since no one would be there. It felt great to be behind the wheel again even though it was on the wrong side. The drive to Yallingup and the Cape Lodge was about 40 minutes. This is the Margaret River wine region and there are vineyards everywhere. As we drove along, the scenery at times reminded us of Napa Valley and, at other times, the hill country of Texas. At all times, it was beautiful and quite cool with a temperature around 60o Fahrenheit.

On Thursday afternoon, we visited several vineyards, enjoyed some excellent wines, and generally had a relaxing time. Friday morning, we were lazy and decided to hang out while Tom and Pam took the car and did some sightseeing and lunch. Later, we took the car and had dinner at a lovely little restaurant called Flutes where we were well taken care of by Elizabeth and Kate.

Tomorrow, we fly over 1,800 miles to Cairns, Australia by way of Alice Springs. We will be back in the tropics.

Till next time,

Pat


Too Much Luggage?

Fearless Foursome, Perth

Mouth of Swan River

Perth from the Swan

Bell Tower, Perth

Stuck in Busselton

Bustling Busselton Airport

Leeuwin Estate Winery

Cape Lodge

Cape Lodge

Margaret River Vineyard

Cape Lodge Rose

Cape Lodge

The Photographer's Chair

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