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 • Tahiti to Christmas Island to Kona to Lanai
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Tahiti to Christmas Island to Kona to Lanai

After our long day flying from Fiji to Bora Bora (11 hours with three intermediate stops), we decided that the flight plan from Bora Bora to Lanai, Hawaii was unrealistic. It would be an even longer day and pilot fatigue was a concern. Our solution was to leave Bora Bora on Thursday, December 20, and hop over to Tahiti and spend the night. The thirty-minute boat ride, the hour flight to Tahiti, and the re-fueling in Tahiti would now be done the day before leaving for Hawaii. Unfortunately, the autopilot did not work on the flight to Tahiti and it became obvious that we would have go to Hawaii without it.

On Friday morning, we were up a 5:00 AM for our 7:00 AM departure from Tahiti to Lanai, Hawaii by way of Christmas Island and Kona, Hawaii. Ashley and I had spent the previous evening with noticeable anxiety about the next leg. I did not expect the thoughts that ran through my consciousness. I think I had never fully come to grips with the enormity of the Pacific Ocean. Tahiti is about 3,000 miles from Australia, the nearest continent. Suddenly, our airplane seemed so small. It was like we had swum out into the middle of a large lake and only then realized that we had to swim back to shore. I was reminded of Shakespeare's words from Macbeth that I will attempt to quote, "I am in blood tread so far that returning were as tedious as go ore".

The morning, however, brought new courage and we were soon on our way. We had decided that Pam would fly the first leg (with no autopilot) to Christmas Island. In route, I would sit part of the way in the right seat and let Tom take a nap so that he would be fresh for the flight to Kona. The flight to Christmas Island was about 1,300 miles over some of the most isolated water in the Pacific. We did not see a single ship and there are virtually no scheduled airline flights between Hawaii and Tahiti.

We were still within range of the VHF radio in Tahiti and were monitoring their frequency when we heard the only other voice we would here on VHF for hours, another pilot that had taken off just behind us and was also in-route to Hawaii by way of Christmas Island. It was remarkable because there are so few flights on this route and also because Tom knew the pilot. He was the owner of "Southern Cross"; the company from which we had rented the ferry tanks that were to be installed in Honolulu.

The airplane he was flying was a Citation V jet that cruises at around 440 knots as compared to our 260 knots. Although he left after we did from Tahiti, he arrived on Christmas Island over an hour and thirty minutes ahead of us. However, he was still there waiting for fuel when we arrived. Remember the story of the tortoise and the hare? We were to find that Christmas Island has only one scheduled flight per week (Monday) and that they don't see private airplanes but once every thirty to sixty days. They were about to have two airplanes at the same time.

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Ashley's thoughts as we're flying over the Pacific…

Maybe it's an optical illusion, but it does seem like I can detect the curvature of the earth, even if we're only at an altitude of 27,000 feet (5 miles). We've been flying now for about 4 1/2 hours…that's a LOT of water. I guess I don't think about it so much back home, because there are so many places to land when there's ground beneath you. All sorts of things have gone through my mind…What would it feel like if one of the engines caught fire and we knew we weren't going to make it? What if we might make it? The adrenaline involved in survival…Does prayer really work? What if the answer's not what you wanted? Is death peaceful or do we feel panic? And then a reflection on 9/11 and what those poor people went through…those who felt they had to jump…those who actually saw the plane approaching their office window…everything that has happened throughout the world since we've been gone and how different our world will be when we get home.

Tom just told us that in 32 minutes we will cross over to the north side of the Equator at 11:54 on 21-Dec.-01. We're traveling at 231 knots, 27,000 feet high (I'm reading this off of the GPS. I'll let you know exactly what time we crossed the Equator (because I'm bored and I can!)…..12:03:20!!!!!! Happy New Year!!!!! Or whatever….

*********************************

Christmas Island is very easy to find. You just go to the edge of the earth, turn left, go another thousand miles or so, and there you are. You have to arrange for fuel on Christmas Island weeks in advance otherwise there may not be any. Their only industry is Bone fishing. That's why the commercial flight comes in once a week. It brings about sixty fishermen to the island and takes the same number back.

I was sitting in the copilot's seat when we first spotted our destination. It has a maximum elevation of four feet and has numerous ponds of yellowish water. I don't suppose that has anything to do with the nuclear testing that was once conducted nearby. As we circled into the wind for our landing, we could see the fuel truck, which had just arrived, sitting next to the Citation V. A short taxi later, we were conversing with the other pilot and waiting our turn for fuel. We had departed Tahiti at 7:06 AM and we had touched down at 12:40 PM.

Once we were re-fueled Tom offered a credit card to the operator of the fuel truck which he refused to accept. He wanted cash in Australian dollars. After I explained that I only had American dollars, he did the conversion and I was soon counting out $900. That computes to about seventy cents a mile.

I'm not sure I told you but our air conditioner has been inoperative (again) for several weeks and it is seriously hot on Christmas Island. Once we are above 15,000 feet, we don't need it anyway. After about an hour, we had our fuel and were on our way to Kona, Hawaii, U.S.A., another 1,100-mile flight. With the expected head winds, it would take us another five hours and thirty minutes.

Tom was at the helm for this leg with Pam flying shotgun. This time there were no other airplanes and, again, there were no ships or boats along the way. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and copied more snapshots onto the computer. About fifty miles from Kona, Pam called the handler on the VHF radio and asked of U.S. Customs was expecting us. They advised that they were looking at them and that they were awaiting our arrival.

Our wheels touched American soil (asphalt) at 7:25 PM, Friday, December 21. We couldn't wait to get off of the airplane. But first, we were boarded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to make sure we weren't bringing any food or plants into the country. Then, a customs official checked our passports and collected our Declaration Forms. Finally, we were standing on the ground. There were lots of hugs and "high fives". We were happy and relieved.

Next came the canine patrol to check for explosives. We were told that this had been added after 9/11. The dog was a ferocious looking Golden Labrador (actually he looked as gentle as a lamb). All of this and the re-fueling took about an hour so by then it was 8:30 PM and the Kona tower had closed for the night. Tom called Honolulu control for clearance and we were soon on our way to Lanai.

When we arrived at the Lanai airport, it was completely shut down for the night. Pam made a great landing, we got off of the airplane once again and Tom opened a bottle of champagne. We were all smiles. Soon I was off looking for someone to help us just as I had done in Bora Bora. This time I found a security guard. He called the hotel and thirty minutes later we were picked up by our van. At 9:50 PM we were at the hotel. Our day had begun seventeen hours earlier and 2,400 miles away.

Pat and Ashley

P.S. We have made reservations on United Airlines to Scottsdale on December 29. We will return to get N982GA in a couple of weeks. We have made tentative arrangements with a man we met in Auckland, New Zealand to put the tanks on the airplane and fly us back to the mainland. His name is Robin Leach (different guy). We will have more on this later. He is a real cowboy in the sky having ferried over one hundred airplanes over the Pacific Ocean.


Land Ho, Christmas Island

Christmas Island

Busy Day on Christmas Island

Christmas Island

Christmas Island Terminal

Christmas Island Terminal

Us and the Truck

Approaching Kona, Hawaii

Lanai Airport

Darkness at Lanai Airport

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